Amritsar

Amritsar stinks. No, I mean literally. It’s a crowded canyon of buildings, dust, dirt and smog. Diesel fumes seem to be everywhere, even though the place is choked with more bicycle rickshaws than I’ve ever seen. Already run down with a cold, my eyes started burning and I began coughing within 10 minutes of being in the city. And I wasn’t even there during one of its famous dust storms!

With the exception of the Golden Temple, the Atari border closing and Jallianwallah Barg, there is nothing worthwhile to see in Amritsar. I’m serious—the other sites are not worth the cost of the rickshaw ride to them. I went purely out of a morbid curiosity and was sorely disappointed.
So, go to Amritsar, see the Golden Temple, Jallianwallah Barg and the border closing in a day, then go away.