Thanks to Dave and Shannon!

I just wanted to give an official shout-out to Dave and Shannon. They first suggested this trip by offering a general invite to visitors. Without their hospitality and willingness to open their home to me, allowing me to rejuvenate between the different parts of my trip, my Indian experience would have been much more difficult.

Anyways, I just wanted to thank them yet again for everything they’ve done for me.

5 most romantic places I saw

Backwaters of Kerela
Lake of Udaipur
Beaches of Goa
Ruins of Hampi
Hills of Shimla

5 coolest sights I saw

Ellora/Ajunta Caves
Jodhpur Castle
Golden Temple/Waga Border closing
Rock Garden of Chandrigarh
Ruins of Hampi

5 most laid-back places I saw

Dharmsala
Hampi
Bundi
Goa
Shimla

Things I’ve missed about the US

Hamburgers
Steaks
Gummi bears
Snow and cold weather
The “Th” sound
Catalytic converters
Traffic laws
Personal space
Being anonymous
Public trashcans
Popular songs I can translate, if not understand
Quiet
Friends and Family

Things I miss about India (already!)

Chai
Thalis
Tandoori everything
Laundry that does itself
Feeling comparatively wealthy
Feeling a bit like a welcomed celebrity
Being laidback about time
People wearing crazy outfits and crazy colors
Fresh fruit vendors
Head bobbling
Having an adventure to write about

Thoughts about overnight train and bus rides

While in India I took a lot of overnight rides, both on trains and busses. The idea is straightforward; you get on in the evening, usually sometime after 9pm, then try sleep as you travel through the night, arriving at your destination early on the next morning, sometimes before 5 am. Depending on how much you’re willing to pay you can get varying levels of comfort, ranging from a normal upright chair to a full scale double bed in some busses.
I’m still torn on whether overnight travel is worth it. On the one hand, if you’re on a tight schedule, its easy to feel that you must do in order to hit everything you want to see. Also, you can talk yourself into believing its less expensive since you’re saving on the cost for a hotel room for a night. On the other hand, I inevitably arrive at my destination extremely tired so I lose a few hours recovering from the trip, anyway. I also miss out on seeing the country side roll by through the window, and the cost of a hotel room is so small as to be negligible in most cases.
So, I guess I’m torn. It’s a necessary evil in some circumstances, so here are some suggestions to make it bearable:

--AC class is essential if you have allergies, are traveling without bedding, or if you need some modicum of quiet to sleep. AC class is warmer in the winter, since they have sealed windows from the cold.
--It is best to get a berth as close to the ground as possible. This reduces rocking as the train or bus moves.
--Try to get a berth close to the middle of train carriage or bus, as this will reduce the effect of bumps.
--Use ear plugs if you can sleep with them in
--Use eye covers, if you can sleep with them on.
--Bring a lock with a chain to secure your luggage near you

Liar Planet?

I’m just gonna spend a few minutes ranting about the lonely planet guide book. Don’t get me wrong, I think travelers to India should pick it up. Having compared it to other guide books I’ve seen backpackers use, its kinda like what Winston Churchill said about democracy: the worst guide except for all others.
But that said, the LP has enough mistakes, typos, and outright fabrications that I’ve heard justifiable reference to it as the “Liar Planet.” For example, every time I have tried to use one of their walking tour maps I’ve gotten lost. I suppose this might reflect on my orienteering skills, except that other packers have the same complaint; you’d expect that once in a while people would stay oriented purely by random happenstance. The maps are so bad that there is a rumor that the LP intentionally edits at least one mistake into every map as a form of copyright protection. I’m very skeptical about this claim, but the fact that it exists at all speaks to the mistakes in the book…

Merry Christmas!

I'm just wishing everyone out there in reader land a Merry Christmas! We had a really pleasant one here full of friends and family--I hope you had the same.

Last Post from India!

Well, this is my last blog post from India. Sadly, I’m leaving in a few minutes for the airport and the 24 hour flight home. Its bitter sweet for me, there’s so much still to see and find out about, but at the same time I’ve been feeling mildly homesick for a while now. My grandfather used to say that you should leave a party while you still wanted to stay, so you only had good memories; I guess I feel something similar about my travels here.

This has truly been a great trip for me, meeting new people, doing new things and seeing new sights. I had a lot of fun, some of which I hope comes across in this record.

Though the India trip is coming to a close, I’m still planning on keeping this blog up, so check back from time to time to see what’s new with me. I hope to keep it interesting; if India has taught me anything it is that while the US is more familiar, it is no less strange!

Upcoming adventures when I get back include: Linton posts about the last two weeks in India, Linton goes to New Years in Las Vegas, Linton goes skiing in Utah, and Linton finds a job. So stay tuned

A day of living dangerously.

On my last day in Hampi I did three (kinda) dangerous things: I drove a motorbike, I drank the local water, and I jumped into a lake rumored to be inhabited by crocodiles.

The motorbike was a lot more fun than thought it was going to be, having never driven one before. An English couple I met and I rented bikes for 180 rupees ($4) and toured around the farms and villages outside of town. The bike itself was a simple affair, just a two stroke engine on a single gear; it struggled to top 40 kmph (25 mph). But the day was sunny and pleasant, the scenery was interesting and the roads were relatively clear of traffic.

There was an incident with a pedestrian bike, however, when I first got on, in which we were on a slow-rolling collision course. Instinctually I swerved right, which for Indian left-sided roads is the wrong way. Anyways, there was a bump, but luckily no one was hurt. Terribly chagrined, and with the bike rental guy eyeing me very ominously, I hopped back on and drove away. All things considered, it was probably for the best; I was extra careful from there on out.




Touring around outside of Hampi I stopped to photograph some field workers on the side of the road. As I usually do, I showed them their pictures on my digital camera’s LED screen afterwards, and they got VERY excited. In short time I was surrounded by fifteen workers asking me to take their picture in every combination they could think of. After taking a few photos I started to beg off, indicating I had to go, but they would have nothing of it. So I photographed a few more, while they brought chai to drink.

Even though it was made from water they got *somewhere* I figured it would be okay because it had been boiled. I figured correctly, since I didn’t get sick a few days later. Still, at the time it was a tough call to make.















After leaving the field workers I went to the lake, where we dove off a 8 meter rock into a pretty lake in which crocodiles had been rumored. Good times.

Stone Chariot

The big tourist draw to Hampi is this famous the Stone Chariot. Its a World Heratige Site, and this is me leaning on it.

Elephant blessings

The main temple in Hampi has a resident elephant who, like everyone else, just seems to hang out. If you approach it with a coin, it will take the coin from you with its trunk, put it in a bowl on its head, then touch its trunk to your head, blessing you. Here's picture of it getting its nightly bath in the river.

Hampi

Hampi is one of the coolest places I've seen on this trip. Its a small nothing of a town which is smack-dab in the middle of the ruins of the largest Hindu empire in Indian history. The air is the cleanest I've breathed in India, and the temperature and humidity is very pleasant. The terrain is a strange mix of rocky and jungle--there a times it reminded me of Utah, and time is reminded me of Panama.

For those who are history buffs, or have a pathaoligcal need to accomplish something daily, there are ruins for miles in all directions to explore. The terrain is extremely rocky, which tends to attract rock climbers who enjoy bouldering. Theres a lake to swim in close by and open roads to bike along. Its not the most exciting of places, but the atmosphere is extremely laid back, with lots of travelers staying for weeks just to hang out.

Anyway, this is a picture of the city center, which has a towering 7 story temple built centuries ago.

Well, the man was good looking...

So while in Bangalore I started a serious discussion with Jonty and her friend Ram about why the Indian population is as big as it is. I was pulling out all these explainations about geometric progressions and how antibotics introduced in the 50s likely caused a population boom.

Turning the conversation over to Ram, I asked why he thought there were so many Indians. He thought a moment then shugged his shoulders and said “Because my father and my grandfather were hot!”

Mixing up Shahruk Khan and Shah Jahan

So Indians don’t find my jokes funny. But the one thing I’ve consistently managed to get a laugh for is when I confess that I mix up the famous Bollywood star Shahruk Khan with the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan.

It would kind of be like someone admitting to mixing up George Cloony and George Washington.

Christmas in Bangalore

This is a picture I took in a mall in Bangalore. A christmas tree with a MacDonald's in the background. You can't get much more American than that, can you?

iPod Massage attachment

I saw this in Bangalore. This is the new iPod attachment of the season, for all those of you out there who collect such things.

I'm not even sure what this means!

I saw this in a mens room out by the Ellora caves. I think its kinda funny that it needs to be "by order."

Digs in Hampi

This is the little hut I was living in while in Hampi. It had hot and cold water, electricity and cost 150 rupees a night, about $3.75. The hotel had about 15 huts arranged in a little wooded area next to a field. It felt like a little village, quite cool.

Little boy holding a puppy

I took this in Hampi; I should make postcards.

Guest Photographer

Jonty, a friend I met in McLeod Ganj, and who I have been staying with in Bangalore, took these really nice pictures while she was up in north India. Just passing them along without much explanation; hope you enjoy.

Freddie Mercury cover band

In the festival at Old Goa they had an Indian band which seemed to exclusively do covers of Queen songs. I don’t know why they were there, but they did a faithful rendition of “We are the Champions,” if with a slight accent.

Crowded Market on the Feast of Saint Francis Xavier

The day I went to Old Goa was the festival St. Francis Xavier, who was one of the first priests in the catholic mission to Goa. Every saint needs a documented miracle to be canonized, and his was to not go gracefully into the night. Which is not to say he didn’t die, its just that when he did die his body did not decay for over a century, appearing to be simply asleep for the whole time. Around the early 17th century, the miracle appears to have worn off, and so now it has decomposed as expected.

Anyway, the I was in Old Goa on Francis Xacier’s feast day, and it was CROWDED, especially in the market to the south of town. I was feeling so claustrophobic that I actually hopped a fence into one of the cathedrals to get out of the crowd. Some old guy yelled at me for doing it, but it was worth it. I’ve ridden in commuter trains in Bombay, New York and Tokyo, and they had nothing on the crowd in the market.

Anyway, here’s a picture of the crowds before it got too tight for me to lift my arm up.

Old Goa

I went to old Goa on my last day in Goa. It used to be the capitol of the province, at one point it supposedly rivaled Lisbon in its glory. Now, its mainly just a collection of pretty cathedrals and museums.

Sunset in Goa

Just pictures of the sun setting.

Goan Raves

Goa is supposed to have a really good party scene, which everyone insists in calling “raves.” Most of them are in clubs, but a few happen on the beach as well. Unless trance music is all that distinguishes a “rave” from a “club party,” they’re just parties, with trance music. I’ve been to three, so far, and haven't been impressed; the only saving grace is that there is no cover charge so I don't feel guilty about leaving.

Admittedly, I likely don’t have the right contacts, or am maybe in the wrong locals. Like most Americans, I'm also am not all that into trance music, which tends to make me bored and impatient. It also seems like the Goa “rave scene” is older than I am--averaging in the age late 30’s, if I had to guess; there are a LOT of aging hippies running around Goa.

One of the more interesting “raves” I found just by following the music along the beach. People had built a bon-fire in a cove and rolled up with a turn-table and speakers in the flat-bed of a truck. A DJ was spinning the requisite trance music, and a guy was selling alcohol from the cab. It was novel for a while, but I had a hard time getting into it.
It was cool, though, to be at a party broken up by the rising tide rather than by the police.

Goa

I'm actually in Goa now. Been here a few days, and its beautiful. The weather isn't "perfect," but its close; a little muggier than I prefer. I can definitely understand why the Portuguese, upon colonizing here, largely lost interest in colonizing other places.

Its also kind of expensive, not by American standards, of course--rooms within sight of the beach are $8, but by Indian standards they're a little pricy.

Took this from the fort overlooking Vagator beach, in northern Goa.

Level boss' lair

As mentioned earlier, the Ajunta caves are specially lit to display the cave paintings. Its also gives some of the temples a spooky look. All the temple insides look like this.

But for those of you who've played video games, tell me this doesn't look like a level boss' lair in just about every first-person-shooter game you've ever seen...

Ajanta Caves

The Ajanta caves are similar to the Ellora caves, but in my mind are a lot less fun. They're also temples built into caves in a hill. The setting is slightly more impressive, since the Ajunta caves are in a canyon, while the Ellora caves just are on a (seemed to me) random hill. Also, the Ajunta caves are closer to and significantly easier for get to from Delhi. In contrast, pretty much the only way to get to Ellora involves going through Bombay, or through Ajunta.

That said, I still like Ellora better. There is significantly more tourism built up around Ajunta, with the accompanying restrictions, restraint ropes, and guards saying "no!" Also, the big draw for Ellora is stone carvings, while the draw for Ajunta is cave paintings. The paintings are poorly illuminated in an attempt to preserve them. Sadly, this means they're also difficult to see. Also, the Ajunta caves are all Jain, which means they they all follow one of two patterns (from what I could see) and so got a little repetitive.

So, if you had to choose, go see Ellora. If you're pressed for time, go see Ajunta. If you have time, go see both.

Indian Jones

More pictures from the Ellora caves. This is from the largest and most impressive cave/temple, Cave #16. Its a temple which is supposed to simulate the holy Hindu mountain where the god Shiva lives.

The entire time I spent exploring it I had the "Indian Jones" theme going through my head, praying that I didn't trip any boobie-traps. I kept one eye towards the door, in case a giant boulder should roll down and block it

A lawnmower? In a stone cave?

Saw this at the entrance to one of the caves. I think its a sweeper, but it looks like a lawnmower. Just kinda a surreal thing to stumble across in a 1000 year old cave temple.

Ellora caves

Went to the Ellora caves north of Bombay. They're phenomenal. Really cool. They're a series of Buddhist, Hindu and Jain Temples cut into the side of a mountain. There are 34 caves in all, along the ridge.

I showed up there at sunrise, with two other Americans I met at the train station. We were the first tourists there, and so got to explore them by ourselves. One of the great things is that you can actually climb up into the temples, wandering around them completely unsupervised.

Just as an aside, the two Americans I met were the FIRST American backpackers I've met this entire trip. And only the second and third from North America. I guess India just is too far to people to travel to...

Gratuitous Lizard Picture

Saw it while exploring the Ellora caves. Cute little Lizard.

But where do they put the extra oxygen?

I saw this in Bombay. I think they're trying to sell drinking water with extra dissolved oxygen. The only reason I can think of why you might want extra dissolved oxygen in your drinking water is if the 1940's fad of swallowing goldfish came back. You never know though, I suppose.

My first reaction on seeing the poster was: "So they give me extra oxygen and I'm supposed to supply my own hydrogen? That seems dumb..."

Quote

Saw this in the Prince of Wales museum in Bombay:

"This is India, where the religious can be very different, but the Gods are the same."

This is Brilliant

Somebody recut the trailer to Kubric's horror move "The Shining" to seem like a romantic comedy. Its very funny; check it out here.

Gratuitous Pictures of Bombay

A picture of Washer People in Bombay
A picture of Bombay University
A picture of Bombay Harbor

Bombay in brief

Cites, like people, can be briefly described by referencing parts of other cities or people; "Bette Davis eyes," or a "Machiavellian personality." What one ends up with, of course, is a Frankenstein amalgam which lumbers about a reader's brain causing confusion and possibly destruction. But short of writing 10,000 words, or employing the talents of a poet, such crude methods must suffice.

That said, Bombay, or at least the parts of it I saw, is a blend of four American cities. Take the financial aspects of New York, with its penchant for tall buildings, hustle and bustle, and people looking for an "angle." Take the colleges of Boston, with the associated Wednesday-Friday-Saturday nightlife, coffee houses and random student gatherings. Take the materialism, retail boulevards and cult-of-personality from L.A. Finally, wrap all those aspects in a muggy beach city climate like Miami, and you get an approximation of the Bombay I saw.

May the image lumber around your heads for a while…

Happy Birthday, Mike!

Happy Birthday to Mike! For those of you who know which Mike that is, go buy him a beer and wish him the best. For those of you who don't, have a happy Sunday!